I got this pattern as I adored the top made by Sallieoh…. and when I read this post by Erica Bunker, I decided the trousers could be worth a try. I tend to sew the same shapes (a line dress) and in general I am relatively conservative. I like it like that, but also figure its good to try a few unknowns now and then. I had this 1.25m denim linen for a while (probably 4 years) and so in the spirit of use it/lose it – it was sequestered!
The trousers are pretty straightforward. I traced the pattern to grade out for my size (between a 16 and 18 – and 12 to 14 at waist) and as it was a multi-size it made it easier. When I went to sew it I felt like I sewed it twice. For such a simple sew, I made a load of mistakes – I kept sewing the pockets to the crotch as the single notch in each caught me out (note use a treble notch for pockets?). Of course I only did it once, but when I went to fix it, I got the wrong leg and moved the pocket to that crotch….. seriously it was sewing Abbot and Costello. The rest went well until the zip. There have been comments online about the difficulty of getting a 6inch open end zip, and I was not going to delude myself I would find one in Galway, so I just bought an 18″ and cut it down. It took me an age to figure the diagram – the zip I understood but the sewing of the tabs I was not so sure of (now that they are done, I cannot remember what the confusion was!)
The trousers are not fully sewn until after the zip, but I had to baste the sides to figure the fit, I should have basted more, as it was only after the zip and sewing the sides and facings that I realised the fit was not going to work. So they were put aside for the day. When I went back to fix – it was relatively quick. I re-angled the zip (chalk line is original, and basted zip is the better fit),took off back facing and did a sway back adjustment at the centre back. They fitted fine, so I decided to lower the front yoke and alter the back facing. The original waist in the pattern is above the natural waist, but it really feels a bit too high for me (and I love high waisted anything), so I brought it all down an inch, hemming the front yoke down, and altering/removing and reusing the back-facing.
They are incredibly comfortable pair of trews and a shape I would probably not even try on in a store! And they feel store bought probably for that reason as well as that I am rather lazy about detailing, so the detailing here is a novelty. I pretty much wore them straight from the machine….. and took the photos an hour later, and wore them out that evening. I love them, and the fabric is perfect. I am wearing a pattern magic toile top with them (still playing around with the pattern but it seems to ‘go’ well with these trousers). I have yet to make the other top for it….. but should do in the next few weeks….!